Course code PārZ6017

Credit points 3

Cosmetics

Total Hours in Course120

Number of hours for lectures26

Number of hours for seminars and practical classes14

Number of hours for laboratory classes8

Independent study hours72

Date of course confirmation11.10.2011

Responsible UnitDepartment of Food Technology

Course developers

author prof.

Viesturs Kreicbergs

Dr.chem.

author prof.

Tatjana Ķince

Dr. sc. ing.

author Pārtikas tehnoloģijas katedra

Jeļena Zagorska

Dr. sc. ing.

Prior knowledge

Ķīmi5006, Chemistry of Natural Compounds

Course abstract

In the framework of the study course “Cosmetics” gains knowledge of the skin care and nourishing cosmetics production. The course involves the chemical composition of skin and cosmetic preparations. In the study course, the classification and uses of cosmetic products are presented; the construction and basic features of the skin are covered, as well as the basic raw materials for cosmetic products production. The course covers manufacturing technologies for cosmetic products and the latest developments. The study course will draw attention to the appropriate choice of packaging materials and technologies for cosmetic products.

Learning outcomes and their assessment

After the course, the student will have:
• Specialised knowledge of the manufacturing of cosmetic products and their effects on the skin, the importance of certain components in the cosmetics manufacture, and the chemical composition of skin and cosmetic products – development and defence of individual work. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th – laboratory works; 1st test, 1st seminar.
• skills in developing recipes and technological scheme for the preparation of cosmetic products (cream, lipstick, shampoo, etc.) – 5t, 6th laboratory works; 2nd and 3rd test, development and defence of individual work, 2nd seminar.

• Competencies: to analyse the composition and importance of components of cosmetic products – 7th, 8th laboratory works, the development and defence of individual work, 3rd seminar.

Course Content(Calendar)

1. Introduction to the manufacture of cosmetic products. Cosmetic history. (Lecture 1 – 1h)
2. Legislation. Differences in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Biologically active components in cosmetics production. (Lecture 2 – 1h)
3. Classification of cosmetic products. (Lecture 3 – 1h)
4. Basic types of cosmetic products. Types of cosmetic products: moisturising cosmetic creams and gels: technological features of manufacturing and basic principles for composition; cosmetic products for skin bleaching: placental extract, hydroquinone, arbutin, vitamin C and their derivatives. Cosmetics for skin desquamation: essential components, peel masks, chemical peel; international masks; nano-cosmetics. (Lecture 4 – 1h, Laboratory work 1 – 4 h)
5. Skin structure: epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. (Lecture 5 – 1h)
6. Basic skin functions. (Lecture 6 – 1h)
7. Characteristics of skin types (normal, dry, fatty, sensitive, mixed type), skin care. (Lecture 7 –1h)
8. Chemical composition of the horny layer and dermis. Cosmetics effects on the skin. Horny layer and cosmetic products. Skin ageing theories. (Lecture 8 – 1h)
9. Hair structure. Hair care products, characteristics, recipes and technologies. (Lectures 9 – 1h, Laboratory work 2 – 4 h)
10. 1st Test. Classification of raw materials for cosmetic products. Hydrophilic compounds: water, alcohols, polyethylene glycols, carboxylic acids, hydrates. Compounds forming gel — inorganic and organic, natural and synthetic compounds with moisturising properties — protein hydrolyzates, hitin, hyaluronic acid, vegetable extracts. Emolents (liophic consumables). Non-hydro lipids — hydrocarbons, fatty acids, upper alcohols. (Lecture 10 – 1h, Laboratory work 3 – 4h, Seminar 1 – 3h).
11. Lipids to be hydrolysed — natural waxes (wax esters), triacylglycerides, mono - and diglycerides. Silica-organic compounds. Emulsifiers — non-ionogenic emulsifiers, catnivorous, anionic and amphibious emulsifiers. Technological properties of emulsifiers. Biologically active compounds — vitamins, enzymes, plant extracts and essential oils. Preservatives – breakdown and need for use. (Lecture 11 – 1h, Laboratory work 4 – 4 h)
12. 2nd Test. Recipes for cosmetic products. Dispersion systems in cosmetics (classification, suspensions and emulsions). Emulsions based on creams: “oil — water” (cooking recipes); “water-oil” (description of components, basic principles for drawing up readjustments); composite emulsion creams. (Lecture 12 – 1h, Laboratory work 5 – 4h, Seminar 2 – 3h)
13. Creams manufacturing technology. Justification for the technological operation of obtaining creams (creams extraction technologies: standard methods, cream production using reduced temperatures). (Lecture 13 – 1h, Laboratory work 6 – 4h)
14. Technological lines for obtaining creams: methods for preparing aqueous solutions, basic fat preparation techniques; preparation of emulsion creams using periodic and continuous operating equipment. Installations for the production of cosmetic preparations: melting, boiling and cooling boilers; emulsion preparing equipment; homogenisers; mixing appliances; reactors. (Lecture 14 – 1h)
15. Packaging materials and technologies for cosmetic products. Metallic containers; plastic and laminated tubes; glass, plastics, paper and paperboard containers. Packaging of cosmetic preparations. (Lecture 15 and 16 – 2h)

16. Presentation and defence of the individual work. 3rd Test. (Seminar 3 – 2h)

Requirements for awarding credit points

Exam.
In order to be able to take the accumulative examination, the student shall:
• take part in practical works (100%) and lectures (70%);
• successfully write three tests (includes the quiz and short answers);

• develop and defend individual work on the chosen topic.

Description of the organization and tasks of students’ independent work

The student must prepare and defend (by preparing a presentation) independent work. The independent work includes a description of the chosen cosmetic product:
1) description of the target audience;
2) theoretical evaluation of the composition;
3) making technology;
4) a description of the material and type of packaging;

5) quality control parameters.

Criteria for Evaluating Learning Outcomes

The evaluation depends on test results and evaluation of individual work. It is calculated as mean value among test and report results.
Test is evaluated as positive, if 60% of questions are correct.

Individual work is evaluated according the order of evaluation.

Compulsory reading

1. Histoloģija (2010) A.Dālmane, Latvijas Universitāte
2. Кривова А.Ю., Паронян В.Х. (2009) Технология производства парфюмерно-косметических продуктов. ДеЛи принт, 668 стр.
3. Kreicbergs V. (2008) Organiskās un pārtikas ķīmijas pamati. LLU, Jelgava. lpp. 228.
4. Hanbook of cosmetic skin care (2010) ed. A.Shai, H.I. Maibach, R.Baran, CRC Press, Taylor & Frances Group, e-book, p. 307
5. Poucher’s Parfumes, Cosmetics and Soap (2000) ed. H.Butler, Kulver Academic Publishers, Netherlands, p. 769.

6. Skin aging handbook (2008) ed. N. Dayan, William Andrew,Norwich, NY, USA, p.483.

Further reading

1. Коспаров Г. Н. (1998) Основы производства парфюмерии и косметики. Москва, Агропромиздат, 287 стр.

2. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (2009) ed. A. O. Barel, M. Paye, H. J. Maibach. Informa healthcare, USA. p. 845.

Periodicals and other sources

www.likumi.lv
https://europa.eu/european-union/eu-law/legal-acts_en www.dzintars.lv
bbfactory@bbfactory.lv
http://www.dissercat.com/content/otsenka-kachestva-i-ekspertiza-kosmeticheskikh-tovarov

http://pandia.org/text/78/444/43229.php

Notes

Elective course for students of academic master study program "Food Science”