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Cosmetics

Course developers

Prior knowledge

Ķīmi5006, Chemistry of Natural Compounds

Replaced course

PārZ6017 [GPAR6017] Cosmetics

Course abstract

In the framework of the study course “Cosmetics” gains knowledge of the skin care and nourishing cosmetics production. The course involves the chemical composition of skin and cosmetic preparations. In the study course, the classification and uses of cosmetic products are presented; the construction and basic features of the skin are covered, as well as the basic raw materials for cosmetic products production. The course covers manufacturing technologies for cosmetic products and the latest developments. The study course will draw attention to the appropriate choice of packaging materials and technologies for cosmetic products.

Learning outcomes and their assessment

After studying the course, the student will have:
• specialized knowledge about the production of cosmetics and their effects on the skin, the importance of individual components in the production of cosmetics, as well as the chemical composition of skin and cosmetic preparations (first and second independent work, control work, laboratory work);
• skills to develop a recipe and create a technological scheme for the preparation of cosmetics (cream, shampoo, etc.) (laboratory work);
• competences to analyse the composition and meaning of the components of skin cosmetics (first and second independent work, laboratory works).

Course Content(Calendar)

1. Classification of cosmetic raw materials. Hydrophilic compounds – water, alcohols, polyethylene glycols, carboxylic acids, hydroxy acids. Gel-forming compounds – inorganic and organic, natural and synthetic. Compounds with moisturizing properties – protein hydrolysates, chitin, hyaluronic acid, plant extracts. Emollients (lyophilic excipients). Non-hydrolysable lipids – hydrocarbons, fatty acids, higher alcohols. (L. 2h, P.W. 3h)
2. Hydrolysable lipids – natural waxes (wax esters), triacyl glycerides, mono- and diglycerides. Organosilicon compounds. Emulsifiers – non-ionic emulsifiers, cationic, anionic and amphoteric emulsifiers. Technological properties of emulsifiers. Additives of biologically active compounds – vitamins, enzymes, plant extracts and essential oils. Preservatives  classification and need for use. (L. 2h, P.W. 3h)
3. Presentation of the first independent work. (W. 2h)
4. Introduction to the production of cosmetics. History of cosmetics. Legislation. Differences between cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. Classification of cosmetics. Skin structure: epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. Basic functions of the skin. Characteristics of skin types (normal, dry, oily, sensitive, mixed type), skin care. Chemical composition of the stratum corneum and dermis. Effects of cosmetics on the skin. The stratum corneum and cosmetics. Theories of skin aging. Basic types of cosmetics. Types of cosmetics: moisturizing cosmetic creams and gels: technological features of production and basic principles of composing compositions; cosmetics for skin whitening: placenta extract, hydroquinone, arbutin, vitamin C and their derivatives. (L. 4h)
5. Hair structure. Hair care products, characteristics, recipes and technologies. Recipes of cosmetics. Dispersion systems in cosmetics (classification, suspensions and emulsions). Creams based on emulsions: "oil in water" (preparation recipes); "water-in-oil" (description of components, basic principles of formulation); in systemic creams. Cream production technology. Basis of technological operations for obtaining cream mass (technologies of obtaining creams: standard methods, production of creams using reduced temperatures). Technological lines for obtaining creams: techniques for preparing aqueous solutions, techniques for preparing basic fatty substances; preparation of emulsion creams using periodic and continuous operation equipment. Equipment for the production of cosmetic preparations: melting, boiling and cooling boilers; emulsion preparation equipment; homogenizers; mixing devices; reactors. Packaging materials and technologies for cosmetic products. Metallic container; plastic and laminated tubes; glass, plastic, paper and cardboard containers. Packaging of cosmetic preparations. (L. 4h)
6. Evaluation of quality parameters of different creams. Creation of cream recipe (calculation), cream development and quality evaluation. (L.W. 6h)
7. Evaluation of shampoo quality parameters. Formulation of shampoos (calculation), product development and evaluation of quality parameters. Bubble ball recipe creation (calculation), product development. (L.W. 4h)
8. Soap recipe development (calculation), product development - cooking, quality assessment.
(L.W. 4h)
9. Emulsifiers and stabilizers in cosmetics production. (L.W. 4h)
10. Theory test. Presentations of the second independent work. (W. 2h)

Requirements for awarding credit points

The study course ends with an Exam.
In order to take the accumulative exam, the student must:
• must participate in laboratory work (100%), seminars and practical work (100%), lectures (70%);
• successfully write a theory test (the test includes test questions);
• two independent works must be developed and defended.

Description of the organization and tasks of students’ independent work

The first independent work.
The student must prepare and publicly defend (presentation) the independent work on cosmetic ingredients according to the plan:
• describe the structure of the molecule and represent it (for polymeric compounds, represent and characterize a fragment of the molecule);
• which molecular groups of these ingredients determine the purposes of use?;
• possible origin of the compound – natural, microbiological, artificial or synthetic?;
• is the connection present or not in living nature?;
• is the compound present or not in the human skin or body?;
• is it found in food raw materials or as a food additive?

The second independent work.
The student must prepare and publicly defend (presentation) the independent work, which includes a description of the chosen cosmetic product:
• characteristics of the target audience;
• theoretical analysis of the composition;
• possible cooking technology;
• description of packaging material and type;
• quality controlled parameters;
• conclusions;
• list of literature.

Criteria for Evaluating Learning Outcomes

The assessment of the study course exam is formed from the average arithmetical assessment of the control paper and independent works.
A student can get a passing grade for the test if at least 60% of the questions are answered correctly.
Independent works are evaluated in accordance with the evaluation procedure specified in the assignment.

Compulsory reading

1. Histoloģija (2010) A.Dālmane, Latvijas Universitāte
2. Кривова А.Ю., Паронян В.Х. (2009) Технология производства парфюмерно-косметических продуктов. ДеЛи принт, 668 стр.
3. Kreicbergs V. (2008) Organiskās un pārtikas ķīmijas pamati. LLU, Jelgava. lpp. 228.
4. Hanbook of cosmetic skin care (2010) ed. A.Shai, H.I. Maibach, R.Baran, CRC Press, Taylor & Frances Group, e-book, p. 307
5. Poucher’s Parfumes, Cosmetics and Soap (2000) ed. H.Butler, Kulver Academic Publishers, Netherlands, p. 769.
Skin aging handbook (2008) ed. N. Dayan, William Andrew,Norwich, NY, USA, p.483.

Further reading

1. Коспаров Г. Н. (1998) Основы производства парфюмерии и косметики. Москва, Агропромиздат, 287 стр.

2. Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (2009) ed. A. O. Barel, M. Paye, H. J. Maibach. Informa healthcare, USA. p. 845.

Periodicals and other sources

1. www.likumi.lv
2. https://dzintars.lv/lv
3. https://bbfactory.lv/
4. https://www.madaracosmetics.com/lv

Notes

Limited optional study course for students of the academic master's study program "Food Science".